PLUMBTALK IS OUR WAY OF DISCUSSING COMMON PLUMBING REPAIR PROBLEMS AND PRODUCTS.
	FAUCETS • Purchasing a New Faucet • Leaking Faucets - two-handle compression • Faucet Leaking at Handle - compression faucet • Faucet Leading from Spout - two-handle "washerless" faucet • Single Lever Faucet Leaking - Ball type • Single Lever Faucet Leaking - Cartridge type • Noisy Faucet
	TOILETS • Tank Over-Fills • Water Keeps Running Through Overflow Tube • To Replace a Typical Fill Valve • Tank Does Not Fill Up • To Replace a Typical Flush Valve
	TIPS & IDEAS • Plumbers First-Aid Kit • Water Hammer and Noises in the Pipe

FAUCETS
Purchasing a New Faucet?
If you're going to purchase a single lever faucet or a washerless faucet - take into consideration the cost of repairs. Many water supplies have become contaminated with sediment and can easily damage these cartridges with foreign matter even as small as a grain of sand. These cartridges work with two finely honed pieces of porcelain that slide together, shearing the water off. Foreign matter gets caught in the shearing action and subsequently damage the disc.
While some manufacturers' cartridges (Central, Delta, Gerber, Grohe, Moen or Price Pfister) are reasonably priced; others can cost well over $100.00 to replace.

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EMERGENCY REPAIRS - FAUCETS

Leaking Faucets - Two-Handle Compression

PROBLEM: Faucet leaking from SPOUT - compression faucet. The most common type of two-handle faucet is the compression valve faucet. It works with threaded stems that control the handles. The stems screw out to open or in to seal the hot and cold water supply ports.

SOLUTION:
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Turn stem to "on" position and remove handle.
3. Use an open-end wrench, adjustable or socket wrench to remove bonnet, turning
counterclockwise. Cover with a rag to prevent marring chrome finish.
4. Remove stem or spindle assembly by turning counterclockwise. Replace washer
at bottom of stem. With a flashlight, check the seat for any roughness. If there is roughness, the seat can either be reconditioned with a seat-dressing tool or replaced.

NOTE: The washer is a fingerprint of the condition of the seat. If the washer has a smooth track imprinted in it, chances are the seat is good. If the washer is torn or has roughened segments, then chances are the seat should be changed.

To change seat: Take a flashlight and inspect the inner core of the seat. Each seat has a keyway, or broach, which allows the tool to be inserted to remove it. Most common tools are square or hexagon. Using the appropriate tool, make sure it's well seated or firm. Hold it squarely with one hand and grasp the tool with a wrench and turn counterclockwise to remove. In re-installing with new, do not over-tighten.

PROBLEM: Faucet leaking at HANDLE - compression faucet.

SOLUTION:
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Turn stem to "on" position and remove handle.
3. Use an open-end wrench, adjustable or socket wrench to remove bonnet, turning counterclockwise. Cover with a rag to prevent marring chrome finish.
3. Examine the packing or o-ring and replace if necessary. Use a socket wrench for fixtures set into the wall, i.e. for showers. Remove old packing and replace with new.

Note: For those stems that use o-ring seals in lieu of packing, it will be necessary to remove the bonnet and stem assembly in the same manner as above. Unscrew stem from bonnet, remove defective o-ring and install with new. For both, grease stems with silicone grease prier to re-installing.

Leaking Faucets - Two-Handle "Washerless"

PROBLEM: Faucet leaking from spout - two-handle "washerless" faucet. The washerless faucet eliminates the washer that has to be forced down to shut off the water in the compression style. The washerless faucets use water compression as the sealing force for the faucet. The pressure seals slide across the supply port in a plastic or ceramic disc to cut off or begin the water flow. When the seal is closed, the water is off.

SOLUTION:
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Turn stem to "on" position and remove handle. Pry index button from handle exposing screw. Remove screw and handle. At this point you should see a cap nut, remove it with pliers, turning counterclockwise. Once nut is removed, re-install handle screw into stem. Grasp screw with pliers and pull gently to remove stem.
3. Once removed, your options are either to replace all seals for cartridge, or if they are not available, replace the cartridge.
4. When re-installing cartridge, take care to align the keyway properly. (At this point, note that some cartridges are made only right-handed. When supplied with lever handles, rotating the cartridge 180 degrees to make the opposite configuration required for lever handles may be required.) Continue re-installing remaining parts by reversing above procedure.

NOTE: Leave cartridge in open position and remove aerator in order to flush out any debris that may have dislodged.

LEAKING FAUCETS - SINGLE-LEVER

PROBLEM: Single-lever faucet leaking - BALL-TYPE

SOLUTION:
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Put handle in "on: position and loosen setscrew at base of handle.
3. Loosen adjusting ring. Unscrew cap counterclockwise with pliers. Be careful not to scratch! (Note: if necessary, at this point spout can be removed by grasping firmly and lifting left/right. Change o-rings on post and clean)
4. Remove cam and packing, and then ball assembly. This will expose seats and springs at base of faucet body.
5. Remove seats and springs and install with new. (You can place them on a pencil to help guide them in).
6. Install new ball. Replace cam and packing, matching keyway on cam with slot on body. Reinstall cap. After cap is screwed down completely, tighten adjusting ring with tool supplied in kit.

PROBLEM: Single-lever faucet leaking - CARTRIDGE TYPE

SOLUTION:
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Put faucet in "on" position. Pry index button from handle exposing screw. Remove screw and handle.
3. Remove retainer/pivot nut and cartridge retainer clip if there is one. (Note: if necessary, at this point spout can be removed by grasping firmly and lifting left/right. Change o-rings on post and clean.)
4. Remove cartridge by installing handle screw into cartridge and grasp with pliers gently but firmly and pull up. Install new cartridge. Continue installing remaining parts by reversing above procedure

PROBLEM: Noisy Faucet

SOLUTION:
1. Check to see if the washer at the end of the stem is tightly screwed in position. If the washer is worn, it should be replaced. If the stem, after reinserting, has "play" (can be moved up and down), it usually indicates worn threads. In this case, a new stem is the only solution.
2. Sometimes there is a design deficiency in the faucet and in this case the faucet will have to be replaced.

TOILETS

EMERGENCY REPAIRS - TOILET TANKS

PROBLEM: Tank Over-Fills

SOLUTION:
When tanks "run" or overfill, the cause is usually defective fill valve. Depending on the style of valve, there would be several possible remedies. First, check that the float arm is free and unobstructed and the float ball is empty. Check for a worn washer on bottom of the stem. Check that stopper ball is seated properly. Clean the surface of the flush valve (where flapper ball sits) with extra fine emery. If the problem continues, change the fill valve.

PROBLEM: Water Keeps Running Through Overflow Tube

SOLUTION:
1. Pull up on float arm to see if this stops the flow. If it does, remove float ball and check to see if ball has water inside. If it does, replace.
2. If float ball is okay, bend the arm slightly to lower the ball and see if this stops the flow.
3. If flow continues, turn off water, remove valve plunger and replace washer.
Note: At this point, if your fill valve is old, it might be wise to replace it

To Replace a Typical Fill Valve:
1. Remove the coupling nut. Place a pan beneath the fill valve to catch any water that may drop through.
2. Place the shank of the fill valve through the opening in the tank with the large rubber cone washer in place.
3. Connect the water supply to the shank.
4. Slip one end of the plastic or copper refill tube over the serrated plastic lug on the body of the fill valve.
5. Place the plastic holder over the opening of the overflow tube on the closet flush valve and position the refill tube in the holder.
6. Assemble the float rod and float. It may be necessary to adjust the rod slightly to permit the tank to fill properly. Take care not to damage it while bending it.

PROBLEM: Tank Does Not Fill Up

SOLUTION:
1. The problem is usually caused by a flush valve not seating properly. To correct, first check stopper guide to be sure it is in line with seat opening. Stopper ball must drop squarely in place.
2. If flapper does seat properly, you may be able to stop the leak by cleaning its surface with extra-fine emery cloth. If not, replace flapper and seat.

To Replace a Typical Flush Valve:
Note: You may have to remove the tank by loosening the two bolts that secure the tank to the bowl.
1. Remove the old flush valve, lift wires, washer and lock nut.
2. Insert the discharge tube of the new flush valve through the tank bottom with the large rubber cone washer in place. Turn the unit to locate the overflow tube properly before tightening lock nut under the tank.
3. Center the guide arm over the valve seat. Install the lift wires; then screw on to flush ball. Check to be sure flush ball will drop into exact center of flush valve seat.
4. Replace refill tube above overflow tube as described in #5 and #6 above.

• Faucet washers in assorted sizes, with screws
• O-rings & packings in assorted sized
• Faucet seats
• Plumber's snake
• Force-type plunger
• Propane torch, solder & flux
• Slip washer assortment
• Tube cutter
• Electrician's tape

PROBLEM: Water Hammer and Noises in the Pipe
1st possibility: A worn valve in a toilet tank fill valve will often cause a pipe to vibrate. A loose washer on a faucet or valve will have the same effect.

SOLUTION:
1. Follow same procedure as for leaky faucet valves or leaky toilets.
2nd possibility: Fast-moving water in a long pipe line, when suddenly shut off, produces a hammering shock wave. (Rigid pipe is the worst offender.)
2. Be sure all pipe lines are securely anchored along the run.
3. If you have air chambers in your line, check, to see if they are free of scale. Clean and replace, if necessary, and be sure to tighten all connections to prevent air loss.
4. If you do not have air chambers in you line, installing them will eliminate the problem.

ALFANO'S COMPLETE STEM CATALOG:
• Our complete stem catalog is available on CD.
• It represents years of research and knowledge compiled by the Alfanos
• Over 200 pages of illustrations drawn to scale with cross-section breakdown for complicated units.
• Broach & Handle adapter cross-reference
• Call us for more information: 718-899-6500 or toll-free 877-900-6510